Big Basin Redwoods State Park

Nearly 250 years ago, the southwestern edge of Big Basin Redwoods State Park was reverently dubbed “Canada de la Salud” by a Spanish expedition seeking respite from a scurvy outbreak. The Canyon of Health not only provided the weary sailors fresh berries to feed their weakened bodies, but also nourished their souls.

Blessed with creeks that flow into scenic waterfalls and towering old-growth redwoods that shade the earth, Big Basin still radiates a healing power. It’s no wonder that preservationists realized as early as 1900 that this haven 20 miles north of Santa Cruz deserved to be set aside for future generations.

California’s first state park has grown from its original 3,800 acres to 20,000 acres. Today, hikers, backpackers, campers and mountain bikers flock to the park, less than a two-hour drive from San Francisco.

Big Basin is so big that it takes several trips to discover everything the park has to offer, which is why so many families return year after year. Whether you’re seeking a wilderness experience at one of four trail camps or opt to stay in a tent cabin, there are options to fulfill every outdoor experience you desire.

Trails throughout the park are well marked, but make sure to purchase a map at the visitor center adjacent to park headquarters. Information is available on the redwoods, birding, geology, mountain biking trails and regulations, trail camps along the Skyline-to-Sea trail, camping and junior ranger programs.

The 146 family campsites are dispersed among four campgrounds. There are sites that can accommodate RVs (although there are no hookups), drive-in sites and walk-in sites that are 50 to 200 yards from parking. Each site has a picnic table, fire ring and storage cupboard. There are flush toilets with coin-operated showers.

On a weekday trip, we chose a walk-in site situated among the redwoods along Sempervirens Creek. A black-tailed deer greeted us like a campground host. Within 30 minutes after we set up camp, some in our group had scampered along the creek’s bank to a waterfall.

Although Sempervirens Falls is hardly the most magnificent in the park, it does have historical significance. It is named after the local coast redwoods, Sequoia sempervirens. Also, the Sempervirens Club was formed very close to the falls in 1900 to ensure conservation of the ancient trees.

Hiking is the activity of choice among most visitors. One of the most popular trails is the Skyline-to-the-Sea trail, which begins at Castle Rock State Park and runs south 34 miles to Waddell Beach on Highway 1. The Skyline-to-the-Sea trail dissects Big Basin, allowing day users to hike a portion of the route. Starting at the Big Basin park headquarters, it’s a 5-mile hike (10 miles round trip) on the Skyline-to-the-Sea trail to Berry Creek Falls, which is the prime destination of the park. The 11-mile loop hike — Sunset trail to Skyline-to-Sea trail — passes three waterfalls, including Berry Creek Falls.

Biking is not allowed on trails, but is OK on 30 miles of fire roads. There’s a 14-mile ride from park headquarters to the ocean on Gazos Creek fire road featuring spectacular vistas. There are also five campgrounds that are accessible to bikers.

It’s actually a lot tougher to drive to the ocean. Best bet is to take Highway 9 to Santa Cruz and then head north on Highway 1 past Davenport to Waddell Beach. Besides being the starting or ending point of the Skyline-to-Sea trail, Waddell Beach is only 2.2 miles from hike-in/bike-in Twin Redwoods trail camp. Waddell Beach is also popular among wind surfers.

The only store within nine miles of the park is located near park headquarters. The closest town is Boulder Creek, a 20-minute drive from the park, so come prepared. Stock up on insect repellent; the mosquitoes were ferocious on our recent visit.

Redwoods make California’s first state park magical. Big Basin’s proximity to the Bay Area makes it a preeminent park for hikers and campers.

Location: 20 miles north of Santa Cruz off Hwy 9
Activities: Camping, hiking, backpacking, biking, wading in creeks, exploring redwoods, windsurfing and  surfing at Waddell Beach
Camping reservations: 1-800-444-park
Web site: www.cal-parks.ca.gov
Tent cabins: 1-800-874-tent
Horse camp at Rancho Del Oso: 831-425-1218
Backpacking permits: 831-338-8861
Santa Cruz bus service: 831-425-8600

Yosemite National Park -- Winter Wonderland

Backpackers slowly ski up Glacier Point Road following a blustery night that saw 8 inches of new snow blanket the upper reaches of Yosemite National Park. European tourists arrive at Badger Pass Ski Area via free shuttle buses from their hotels in Yosemite Valley. Couples seeking solitude snowshoe past the crowds to ridges with views, while kids and adults tube down a slick runway.

If it’s winter in Yosemite, it’s time for a little cold play.

The center of Yosemite’s winter sports scene is the Badger Pass Ski Area, located 30 miles from Yosemite Valley. Proclaimed as California’s original ski resort after opening in 1935, Badger Pass is the perfect place for beginning skiers and snowboarders to hone their skills in a family atmosphere.

Badger Pass first began offering ski lessons in 1928, making it the first ski school in the West. Commitment to newcomers is still a focus, with 35 percent of its 10 runs suited for beginners, 50 percent for intermediates and just 15 percent for advanced skiers. Badger Pass, situated at 7,200 to 8,000 feet in the Sierra Nevada, features five lifts: 1 triple-chair; 3 double-chair; 1 cable tow. With rentals, lessons, food services and even babysitting available on site, Badger Pass is a great place for families to get away for that once- or twice-a-year ski trip.

Tubing has been added at Badger Pass in recent years, but only issued snow tubes are allowed in the designated area. Although park regulations prohibit sledding in the Badger Pass area, SUVs and cars can be spotted many places on Glacier Point Road, where downhill runs are too tempting to resist.
 
The Yosemite Cross Country Ski Center, operated by the Yosemite Mountaineering School, is a relative baby compared to its downhill sister after springing up in 1970. At Badger Pass, where rentals and lessons are available, there are 25 miles of machine-groomed trails and roads, and 90 miles of marked trails.

Worth noting is that there are no trail fees for cross country skiing and snowshoeing because you’re in a national park. The fee to enter Yosemite is $20 per car, which is good for seven days.

There are several options if you want to spend the night in the wilderness during the winter. The Yosemite Mountaineering School can help you plan a guided trip, with overnight tours ranging from one to six days. The Yosemite Cross Country Ski Center also rents sleeping bags and overnight packs. For information about tours call 209-372-8344.

Located about a 9-mile cross country ski from the Badger Pass Ski Area is the Ostrander Ski Hut, which can accommodate 25 people a night. Although skiers must tote in food and bedding, the hut has a propane stove and wood for a fire. Popular for more than seven decades, Ostrander Ski Hut on Ostrander Lake offers a wilderness experience without the hassles of setting up a tent in the snow. It only costs $20 per person a night to stay and reservations are accepted by calling 209-372-0740.

Wilderness camping is free, but skiers must register at the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center. Popular snowcamping destinations from Badger Pass Ski Area include Dewey Point (3 miles), Taft Point (9 miles) and Glacier Point (19 miles). All three camping spots feature bird’s-eye views of the valley and towering granite landmarks.

In addition to Badger Pass, there are two other nordic areas in Yosemite: Crane Flat, located 7 miles from the Big Oak Flat Entrance on Highway 120; Mariposa Grove, 2 miles inside the park’s southernmost entrance on Highway 41. To ski or snowshoe among giant sequoias late in the season, the best bets are Tuolumne Grove and Merced Grove in the Crane Flat area. Make sure to hold onto the map and newsletter you receive when you enter the park. Yosemite looks a lot different in the winter.

Location: Highway 140 from Merced to the Arch Rock entrance to the park; take Wawona Road (Highway 41) 14 miles; turn left on Glacier Point Road to Badger Pass Ski Area
Winter activities: Downhill skiing, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, tubing, snow camping, hiking, exploring waterfalls
Info: Road conditions: 209-372-0200
Badger Pass Ski Area: 209-372-8430
Yosemite Cross Country Ski Center: 209-372-8444
Yosemite Mountaineering School: 209-372-8344
Ostrander Ski Hut reservations: 209-372-0740
Lodging: Inside the park: 559-252-4848; Outside the park on Highway 140 in El Portal, Cedar Lodge: 1-702-438-1166

Angel Island State Park

First, there's the 15-minute boat ride from Tiburon to Angel Island State Park or a 30-minute ride if you leave from San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf. The alternative transportation factor counts big with tourists and children.

Once you lumber off the ferry onto Angel Island, you're on your own to explore everything from the marine life of Ayala Cove, the 360-degree views on top of Mount Livermore and 100 years worth of military history. Although close to 200,000 annually make the boat ride to the park, many visitors limit their stays to the roomy picnic area in Ayala Cove.

There's a paved path leading to the tables and grills so it's handicap accessible, and nearby shade is great for seniors. The Ayala Cove picnic area also hugs the shoreline, allowing children to wade or splash around although no lifeguards are on duty. The adjacent visitor center provides a great introduction into the island's history, starting with Native Americans 3,000 years ago and through 1940, when it was last used as an Immigration Station.

"There's a huge amount of history here," said Surrey Blackburn, executive director of the Angel Island Association. "It's influenced the history of the Bay Area."

The historical contributions of Angel Island are so important that the park is on the National Registry of Historic Places and is a National Historic Landmark. Of international importance are the poems written by Chinese immigrants, who endured long waits to get into the country between 1910 and 1940. With very few belongings, Chinese expressed themselves with beautifully crafted calligraphy on walls in several Immigration Station buildings. More wall poems were uncovered at the Immigration Station hospital.

“This is a great way to get a good idea how California was built,” said Fran Rozoff, an elementary school teacher. “It gives the kids a sense of history.”

Because state history is part of the California’s fourth-grade curriculum, Rozoff escorts her students to the park every year. Blackburn estimates 50,000 youth annually take part in interpretive programs on Angel Island.

“It’s a wonderful place,” Rozoff said. “It’s a great way to end the year.”

Angel Island ranger Mike Whitehead has lived at several state parks since his dad was also a ranger. After more than a decade at Angel Island, he still gives his park two thumbs up due to the adventure factor."

“This is unique in the California State Park system,” Whitehead said. “It’s a jewel in the San Francisco Bay environs and the park system. Don’t miss the boat is a real concern out here. It’s an island. That makes it an adventure.”

As historically rich as Angel Island is, the park’s natural beauty demands attention, too. The park features nine campsites that can be reserved through Reserve America (1-800-444-PARK) and several other group sites for special use, including a kayak camp and a youth work camp.

”At night, you almost have the island to yourself,” Whitehead said.

Hiking can be breathtaking both for the views and the workout. The climb to Mount Livermore, named for the conservationist who led the campaign to create the park, is 781 feet -- enough challenge to get your heart pumping, but easy enough for average hikers to ascend. The island offers 12 miles of hiking trails and 8 for biking. The 5-mile paved trail that encompasses the island makes for a great bike ride, and rentals are available.

For seniors who may not want to hoof it but still want to experience the military history, there’s a narrated tram ride. Angel Island also embraces boaters, with 47 slips for day use 8 a.m. to sunset.

”There’s a lot to see out here,” Whitehead said. “It takes a little more dedication to come to the island.”

Location: Island located in San Francisco Bay; ferry service from San Francisco and Tiburon
Activities: Hiking, cycling, picnicking, boating, tram ride, snack shop, camping, visitors center
Ferry service: The cost of a round-trip fare from Tiburon to Angel Island is $10 for adults, $7.50 for children 5-11 and free for youth 4-and-under. Price includes admission to the park. Call 415-435-2131 for schedule. You can also board a Blue and Gold Ferry in San Francisco or Oakland/Alameda to reach Angel Island. The cost is $13 for adults, $7.50 children 12 and under and youth under 5 are free. Ferries leaving Oakland/Alameda stop at Fisherman’s Wharf first. Call 415-705-5555 for schedule.

Tomales Bay State Park

Although Tomales Bay State Park, the next door neighbor of Point Reyes National Seashore, has only been open to the public since 1952, it was favored by the Coast Miwoks some 3,000 year ago. Crank up the time machine to the 21st century and you can still find families sharing meals along Heart’s Desire Beach, people paddling on tranquil Tomales Bay and young kids splashing in water that really is warm enough to swim in.

“It will feed your soul and spirit,” Tomales Bay State park ranger Carlos Porrata said. “The Coast Miwoks lived here for thousands of years. The reason they lived here is because if there is such a thing as paradise this is it. How much better could it get?”

Families from throughout the Bay Area echo that sentiment. If you’re looking for a place to let the kids cool off while you read a book at a nearby picnic table or take a short hike to the next beach over, Tomales Bay State Park is an ideal summer destination for you. The warm waters draw families from throughout the Bay Area, especially those with young children.

“We like the fact that’s warmer,” said a father from San Francisco. “It’s more protected for the kids. It’s a great family spot.”

Tomales Bay State Park is ideal for kayakers as well. For a mere $4 parking fee, you can drive your car within 100 yards of the bay and be paddling away in a matter of minutes. Kayaking is so popular on Tomales Bay that people are driving from throughout Northern California to launch for the day.

“The weather is always nice,” said experienced kayaker Melissa Erno. “This is a great place to go. It’s really easy to get your kayak in and out of the water."

Since the ’90s, kayaking’s popularity has exploded and now there are more than half dozen kayak companies renting and offering tours; most kayakers find their way to Tomales Bay State Park even if they launch from nearby Blue Waters Kayaks in Inverness, for example.

In the spirit of the Coast Miwoks, Porrata believes he is a steward of the land he oversees. As the Tomales Bay State Park ranger for more than two decades, Porrata is an activist when it comes to the environment and was even awarded the Olmstead Award by the State Parks Department.

Porrata is also a member of the Tomales Bay Watershed Council, an organization that also includes representatives from Point Reyes National Seashore, the kayak and oyster companies, residents, ranchers, county planning and water quality. Addressing the continued use of Tomales Bay by kayakers, the council has developed a guideline for boaters on Tomales Bay, especially noting all restrooms along the coast.

“It’s wonderful to come and be with nature, but leave a light foot,” Porrata said. “We have so much to learn from the Coast Miwoks.”

Location: Follow Sir Francis Drake Blvd. in Marin County toward lighthouse; turn right on Pierce Point Road to park entrance
Activities: Kayaking, canoeing, clamming, swimming, picnicking, hiking, wildlife viewing
Info: 415-669-1140
Boat-in camping: Available north of Indian Beach to Tomales Point; contact Point National Seashore at 415-464-5149

Kirby Cove in the Marin Headlands

Kirby Cove is perhaps one of the best camping spots in all of Northern California and is within walking distance from the Golden Gate Bridge. Tucked away amid towering cypress trees, all five camping sites have water views, are close enough to hear fog horns sound all night long and spacious enough to accommodate the whole family.

Only four sites are open to the public, so plan ahead to get a reservation, which can be made six months in advance. Even if you have to plan your entire vacation around when you can get a reservation, it's worth it. Each site has room for four tents, and with a 10-person maximum, you really can turn this camping outing into a small gathering.

Kirby Cove’s greatest attribute is proximity to the Golden Gate Bridge. A black-sand beach below the campground is perfect for sunbathing, reading or simply watching boats come and go under one of the most photographed landmarks in the world.

The beach's rocky shoreline features several caves to explore during low tide. As small waves break onto the coast, it's easy to dart around rugged outcroppings to reach caves that stretch inward 25 to 40 feet. Just above the beach is a small day use area with a picnic table.

Even if you're not into camping, Kirby Cove is a great hiking destination for lunch or some downtime from a hectic vacation in the city. There's plenty of room to throw a frisbee or toss the football around. Each camp site has two picnic tables and a fire ring. Although there are pit toilets, at least there are bathrooms nearby. There is no potable water.

Part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Kirby Cove is very user friendly (accept for getting a reservation). There are carts to haul your gear to the camping spots, wheelchair accessible paths and established places to put up each tent to ensure a flat surface and reduce environmental impact.

After you make your reservation, you will receive parking passes and the combination to the lock at the gate at the top of the fireroad. For day use, walk around the gate just north of the first parking lot near the bridge. It's about a mile from the top of the road down to the campground. It's about 100 to 300 yards from the campground parking lot to the camping sites, making those carts handy.

If you live in the Bay Area, you may think that one night at Kirby Cove will be enough to get a quick camping fix. But Kirby Cove is such a great getaway that you head away from camp already planning next year's vacation.   

Location: Just north of the Golden Gate Bridge in Marin County. Just after the first parking lot of the Marin Headlands on the left, there's a locked gate at a fireroad. The fireroad leads to the campground.
Activities: Camping, sunbathing, hiking

Marin Headlands

Whenever National Park Service ranger Matt Ehmann entertains guests from the East Coast, his first stop is that spot just across the Golden Gate Bridge where the Marin Headlands majestically tower above the Pacific Ocean. Ehmann unnecessarily points out the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco skyline before directing his guests’ attention to Angel Island and Tiburon.

“You have such phenomenal views,” Ehmann said. “I orient my out-of-town visitors to the Bay Area from one spot.”

The Marin Headlands, under jurisdiction of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, offer an ideal day trip for millions who visit the Bay Area on business, vacation and adventure. But unlike visitors who trek to Yosemite to see the falls or the Grand Canyon’s South Rim to peer over the side for the view, the Headlands’ diverse guests are treated to a multitude of opportunities a stone throw from their homes or hotels.

There’s the park’s military history, featuring a dozen batteries. There’s the wildlife of the Headlands, ranging from bobcats and deer to red-tailed hawks and an occasional eagle. Mountain biking is another allure as well as hiking along a pristine coastline preserved from development. Rodeo Beach is one of Marin’s most popular surf spots, especially for a quickie before or after work.

There’s even inexpensive lodging at the Golden Gate Hostel. Camping is offered at two spots on the ocean (Kirby Cove and Bicentennial) and two others that require a short backpack into the heart of the Headlands (Hawk and Haypress).

A great place to start your adventure in the Marin Headlands, besides the Golden Gate Bridge overlook, is the visitor center located 3 miles from the park entrance. That’s where you pick up camping permits, trail maps and informational brochures, including one designed for dog lovers. You can also uncover lots of insider knowledge about the Headlands through interpretive displays at the visitor center. In one quick stop you can learn about the influence of the Coast Miwoks, early Spanish ranchers and military in the Headlands.

After a review of the Headlands’ natural habitat, including grasses, wildlife and ocean life, you can head over to the Marine Mammal Center, which is open to the public daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The private, nonprofit center, which is the largest marine mammal rehabilitation center in the country, has cared for more than 5,000 sea lions.

Aside from all the lessons that can be learned throughout the Marin Headlands, there’s lots of fun to be had. Although fog often prevents the sun from shining down on the park, there are always people picnicking on the beach, hikers climbing scenic peaks and mountain bikers hitting the trails.

On hot, sunny weekend days, crowds can be a problem, especially at Rodeo Beach. But the beauty of the Marin Headlands prevails regardless of the masses, and with a little effort you can usually find solitude within the park’s boundaries, which stretch from the Golden Gate Bridge to Tennessee Valley.

Location: Just north of the Golden Gate Bridge, stretching along the Pacific Ocean coast to Tennessee Valley
Activities: Scenic views, photography, hiking, cycling, mountain biking, picnicking, wildlife viewing, interpretive center, sunbathing, surfing, boogie boarding, beachcombing.
Information: 415-331-1540
Camping: Kirby Cove call 415-561-4304 ($20 per night); Bicentennial, Hawk, Haypress call 415-331-1540 (free).

Hendy Woods State Park

If a Russian immigrant could live in the forests of Hendy Woods State Park for more than 18 years, then it must be worthy of a couple of nights in a tent at the campground tucked away in the Anderson Valley wine region.

The legend of the Hendy Hermit is one of many reasons to visit this 845-acre refuge amid the redwoods. Using the stump of a fallen redwood as a framework for his home, the hermit lived off the land and the generosity of strangers. Part of his hut is still intact for visitors to explore and there’s a kiosk with photos and articles to provide insight into the hermit’s meager existence.

The park also features two groves of old-growth redwoods: the 80-acre Big Hendy grove and the 20-acre Little Hendy Grove. Trails wind through the groves and campgrounds, allowing visitors to hike without having to get in a car and drive to a trailhead.

The 92 developed campsites are spacious although there isn't a lot of privacy from neighbors. That doesn’t seem to deter visitors, many of whom use this park as an annual getaway for the entire family to converge. Each site has a picnic table, fire grill and food lockers. Other amenities include drinking water, flush toilets and coin-operated showers. The sites can handle RVs that are 35 feet long, and there’s a RV dump station.

There are also four rustic cabins that can be rented. The cabins may be great for those seeking accommodations while wine tasting, but I would prefer to stick with tent camping every time.

The day-use area features access to the Navarro River. It’s fine for a dip on a hot summer day, and may be suitable for canoes and kayaks in winter and spring.

Fishing is not allowed within the park boundaries. The Department of Fish and Game has designated the area upstream from the Philo-Greenwood Bridge as a spawning habitat.

Bikes are not allowed on trails, but the paved roads throughout the campground and road to the day use area are safe and suitable for rides with the kids. Serious mountain bikers will need to look elsewhere for riding opportunities.

Location: From San Francisco, take Highway 101 to Cloverdale. Head west on Highway 128 for 45 minutes to Philo Greenwood Road, turn left to park entrance
Activities: Camping, hiking, biking, swimming, exploring redwoods, Hermit Hut
Information: 707-895-3141

Camping: 1-800-444-park
Website: www.cal-parks.ca.gov