California's Lost Coast

Perched up a canyon mouth out of harm's way, our tents are strategically situated within earshot of Pacific Ocean waves crashing onto black-sand beach. It took a little work to get to this pristine waterfront property, but the hike with generously-stocked backpacks is well worth the sweat and exposure to a little poison oak.

Hidden like a remote location for the TV drama "Lost'', California's Lost Coast truly lives up to its name with ruggedness that precludes development. Although tiny logging ports once dotted the coastline, today much of the Lost Coast lies within Sinkyone Wilderness State Park and King Range National Conservation Area.

The Lost Coast Trail runs 64 miles through both parklands, creating a backpacker's delight both in solitude and sheer beauty. Even when you're climbing up and down around canyons, the distant barks of sea lions fuel your push to find that perfect campsite.

Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, named for the Sinkyone Indians, features about 22 miles of the Lost Coast Trail and 31 hike-in sites. Thanks to four-wheel drive we made our way to the Needle Rock visitor center and then another 2.7 miles on a one-lane dirt road to Bear Harbor camp. Getting to the trailhead is actually one of the tougher obstacles.

Like centurions guarding the gates to a hallowed ground, two Roosevelt Elk with velvet-covered antlers sit stoically just off the trail, making sure we know that eyes will be upon us during our three-day adventure. We are Mother Nature's guests on North America's greatest unspoiled Pacific coastline outside Alaska and Canada. After being greeted rather unceremoniously by the elk, which nodded and then went back to munching grass, we continued our 4.3-mile hike to Wheeler camp.

Foxglove, lupine, Indian paintbrush and Douglas iris made the trek even more colorful and by the time we reached our first Redwood grove about 2 miles into the hike we felt the magnificence of this wilderness botanical garden. Of the hundreds of California state parks, Sinkyone is one of the few that boasts the word "wilderness.''

The Lost Coast Trail strays from the Redwood forests out to the continent's edge offering unobstructed vistas as far as the eyes can see. Early spring and late fall often provide glimpses of migrating whales, but in June we graciously settled for sea lions, a variety of coastal and shore birds, including osprey, and the fog-less horizon.

A mile uphill from Wheeler camp, we passed through a second Redwood grove before picking up the pace as we proceeded to the beach downward past rainforest-like ferns. A picnic table serves as a bridge over Jackass Creek just before Wheeler camp, which used to be a logging town.

We set up camp around the remains of an old fireplace, which serves as a great staging area for our meals. Within five minutes two backpackers rushed through the canyon from the other end of the trail, hoping to secure the same campsite.

"This is my favorite spot,'' the disappointed backpacker says enviously before setting up camp between huge driftwood pilings closer to the beach.

One of the beauties of the Lost Coast Trail is that you can hike the entire thing, which will take between seven and 10 days, or enjoy it in bite-size pieces. We chose the latter, preferring to camp at Wheeler for two nights.

Day two of our adventure featured a hike to another campsite 4.5 miles away. Little Jackass camp is much smaller than Wheeler, but features a half dozen sea lions frolicking in the surf like a show at Marine World. The climb back out of Little Jackass is challenging, making us very appreciate that we left our backpacks back at Wheeler.

With ominous clouds blowing over camp from the east on day three, we quickly pack up our belongings and head back to the car 4.3 miles away. The packs are a little lighter, and the cool morning breeze is refreshing.

The final mile is gently downhill, giving us that last little nudge toward the trailhead. As if time stood still, the elk were resting in the same meadow we found them two days earlier.

Location: Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. Directions to Needle Rock visitor center: From Highway 101 take the Redway exit. Turn west on Briceland Road (Mendocino County Road 435). After 12 miles, fork left to Whitehorn. About 6 miles past Whitehorn, the road is paved up to the Four Corners junction. Go straight for 3.5 miles. The park road is steep, winding and only one lane.
Considerations: All drinking water from streams and creeks must be purified. Bear canisters are required for all backpackers. There are primitive toilets at most camp sites, including Wheeler and Little Jackass. Fires are permitted only in park fire rings, and you are allowed to gather driftwood.
Contact: 707-986-7711