Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Big Basin Redwoods State Park

Nearly 250 years ago, the southwestern edge of Big Basin Redwoods State Park was reverently dubbed “Canada de la Salud” by a Spanish expedition seeking respite from a scurvy outbreak. The Canyon of Health not only provided the weary sailors fresh berries to feed their weakened bodies, but also nourished their souls.

Blessed with creeks that flow into scenic waterfalls and towering old-growth redwoods that shade the earth, Big Basin still radiates a healing power. It’s no wonder that preservationists realized as early as 1900 that this haven 20 miles north of Santa Cruz deserved to be set aside for future generations.


California’s first state park has grown from its original 3,800 acres to 20,000 acres. Today, hikers, backpackers, campers and mountain bikers flock to the park, less than a two-hour drive from San Francisco.

Big Basin is so big that it takes several trips to discover everything the park has to offer, which is why so many families return year after year. Whether you’re seeking a wilderness experience at one of four trail camps or opt to stay in a tent cabin, there are options to fulfill every outdoor experience you desire.

Trails throughout the park are well marked, but make sure to purchase a map at the visitor center adjacent to park headquarters. Information is available on the redwoods, birding, geology, mountain biking trails and regulations, trail camps along the Skyline-to-Sea trail, camping and junior ranger programs.

The 146 family campsites are dispersed among four campgrounds. There are sites that can accommodate RVs (although there are no hookups), drive-in sites and walk-in sites that are 50 to 200 yards from parking. Each site has a picnic table, fire ring and storage cupboard. There are flush toilets with coin-operated showers.

On a weekday trip, we chose a walk-in site situated among the redwoods along Sempervirens Creek. A black-tailed deer greeted us like a campground host. Within 30 minutes after we set up camp, some in our group had scampered along the creek’s bank to a waterfall.

Although Sempervirens Falls is hardly the most magnificent in the park, it does have historical significance. It is named after the local coast redwoods, Sequoia sempervirens. Also, the Sempervirens Club was formed very close to the falls in 1900 to ensure conservation of the ancient trees.

Hiking is the activity of choice among most visitors. One of the most popular trails is the Skyline-to-the-Sea trail, which begins at Castle Rock State Park and runs south 34 miles to Waddell Beach on Highway 1. The Skyline-to-the-Sea trail dissects Big Basin, allowing day users to hike a portion of the route. Starting at the Big Basin park headquarters, it’s a 5-mile hike (10 miles round trip) on the Skyline-to-the-Sea trail to Berry Creek Falls, which is the prime destination of the park. The 11-mile loop hike — Sunset trail to Skyline-to-Sea trail — passes three waterfalls, including Berry Creek Falls.

Biking is not allowed on trails, but is OK on 30 miles of fire roads. There’s a 14-mile ride from park headquarters to the ocean on Gazos Creek fire road featuring spectacular vistas. There are also five campgrounds that are accessible to bikers.

It’s actually a lot tougher to drive to the ocean. Best bet is to take Highway 9 to Santa Cruz and then head north on Highway 1 past Davenport to Waddell Beach. Besides being the starting or ending point of the Skyline-to-Sea trail, Waddell Beach is only 2.2 miles from hike-in/bike-in Twin Redwoods trail camp. Waddell Beach is also popular among wind surfers.

The only store within nine miles of the park is located near park headquarters. The closest town is Boulder Creek, a 20-minute drive from the park, so come prepared. Stock up on insect repellent; the mosquitoes were ferocious on our recent visit.

Redwoods make California’s first state park magical. Big Basin’s proximity to the Bay Area makes it a preeminent park for hikers and campers.

Location: 20 miles north of Santa Cruz off Hwy 9
Activities: Camping, hiking, backpacking, biking, wading in creeks, exploring redwoods, windsurfing and  surfing at Waddell Beach
Camping reservations: 1-800-444-park
Web site: www.cal-parks.ca.gov
Tent cabins: 1-800-874-tent
Horse camp at Rancho Del Oso: 831-425-1218
Backpacking permits: 831-338-8861

Santa Cruz bus service: 831-425-8600

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