Clear Lake State Park

The sight of two kayaks on top of an incoming SUV is the only prodding naturalist Cliff Johnson needs to offer up a few suggestions on where to paddle during a visit to Clear Lake State Park. Johnson, who works in visitor services, calls attention to Kelsey Creek, an Everglades-like waterway that meanders in and out of Clear Lake. White pelicans, great blue herons and double-crested cormorants are as common as friendly park employees.

“It’s a great camping environment,” Johnson said. “There’s a lot to do here.”

Clear Lake State Park, located less than four hours northeast of San Francisco, is a birding paradise. Johnson says he expects to see at least 45 species of birds when he leads a summer nature hike inside the park; that number increases to 65 species in the winter and Johnson's personal count has reached 102.

Johnson, a former researcher at UC Berkeley, says more than 300 species of birds have been identified throughout Lake County. In his worldwide travels, Johnson has viewed some 7,200 species.

“We have a lot of diverse habitat — oak woodlands, river, high-altitude pine, lake,” Johnson said. “We’ve had some amazing birds come through. There’s always something that shows up that you don’t expect.”

The fishing on Clear Lake, possibly the oldest lake in North America, is even better than the birding. On a steamy afternoon last week, a couple of Lake County locals came to the park to stage their own personal derby. Using artificial worms or night crawlers, bass in the 2- to 5-pound range were striking from the shoreline and by wading into the warm water. Clear Lake is also home to crappie, bluegills, catfish,

perch, blackfish and hitch. Lake records include a 17.5-pound largemouth bass caught in 1990 and a 35-pound channel catfish caught in 1982.

Tules, down trees and water grasses create a rich fishery in the 19-mile lake that averages 27 feet in depth. But the Department of Fish and Game periodically plants fish. During the past few years, thousands of crappie and bass have been planted, establishing one of the state’s best fisheries for those specific species.

Although Clear Lake State Park may draw as many as 1,500 campers and day users during a summer weekend, the park had plenty of campsites available during a midweek trip in July. There are several “premium” sites right on the lake, allowing campers to pull their boats up onto the beach for quick access. Many of these sites are reserved seven months in advance.

Even if you can't secure a “premium” site, there are plenty of options for motor boats, kayaks, canoes and inflatables. Most campsites in Kelsey Creek Campground (one of four campgrounds in the park) are within a short walk of the lake via a trail near the “premium” sites. There’s also a boat ramp adjacent to the visitor center.

The four campgrounds range from party sites for boaters to romantic perches overlooking the lake. Holly Palmer, a park administrator, refers to a few spots in the Lower Bayview Campground as “honeymoon sites” due to their privacy and lake views.

“It’s gorgeous on a moonlit night — you can't beat it,” Palmer said. “On the weekend we’re packed, but midweek it’s nice.”

With water temperatures averaging 61 degrees and rising as high as 76 degrees, Clear Lake is ideal for all water sports. There is even a roped-off swimming area with nearby picnic tables and barbecues.

Hiking is somewhat limited, but there are two short, self-guided nature trails. The Indian Nature Trail explores how the Pomo utilized native plants to survive and thrive.

To learn more about the history of the Pomo, which date back 1,500 years, stop at the visitor center. Besides the Pomo exhibit, the impressive visitor center expounds on the park’s woodlands, caves and waterways. A 700-gallon aquarium features fish from the lake.

Clear Lake State Park draws more than 120,000 visitors per year, which is a great reason to avoid the area on summer weekends. During the off-season, when eagles, mountain lions, bobcats, river otters and mink rear their heads, or during the week when the rest of the world is working, Clear Lake State Park is an oasis for boaters, birders and anglers.

Location: From San Francisco, take 101 north to Hopland. Exit onto Highway 175, driving 17 miles to Main Street. Follow Main Street to Soda Bay Road. Take Soda Bay Road 6 miles to park entrance

Activities: Camping, birding, fishing, swimming, boating, hiking, visitors center
General information: 707-279-4293
Camping reservations: 1-800-444-7275. Reservations may be made up to seven months in advance. There are no RV hookups, but there is a dump station near the boat ramp.

• Kelsey Creek Campground offers premium sites with water access.

• Cole Creek Campground is shaded by oaks and cottonwoods.

• Lower and Upper Bayview Campgrounds offer the most privacy