Monday, November 19, 2012

Humboldt Redwoods State Park

Avenue of the Giants may be the premier destination in Humboldt Redwoods State Park, but among the 52,000 acres are 13 campgrounds. Some are noticeable along the renowned tree-lined corridor while others demand a 6- to 15-mile hike/bike climb above the Bull Creek watershed.

There are three developed campgrounds, two environmental campgrounds, five backpacking camps, a hike/bike campground just off the main road and two group campgrounds, including an area reserved for campers with horses.

The campground that seemingly stands out among the lot is Albee Creek, tucked away 5 miles west of Avenue of the Giants near Weott on Mattole Road. Albee Creek campground makes a perfect base camp, offering a little privacy and tons of accessibility to California’s third-largest state park.

The volunteer docent at the Founders Grove on Avenue of the Giants went so far as to call Albee Creek one of the top 100 campgrounds in the nation. And it’s hard to argue his point after two glorious days in the redwoods.

Albee Creek is the smallest of the three developed campgrounds with 40 sites, including one that is wheelchair accessible and 33 that can accommodate RVs up to 31 feet. All sites have picnic tables and grill/fire rings, and the campground has flush toilets and coin-operated showers.

Quaint Albee Creek and rocky Bull Creek serve as boundaries for the campground dotted with redwoods and teeming with wildlife. It’s actually a tough call whether to relax with a good book as Albee Creek’s peaceful current provides a little background music or explore the more than 75 miles of trails throughout the park.

Beginning at the campground is a 2½-mile hike on the Big Tree Area Loop that features Rockefeller Forest, Tall Tree and Giant Tree. With sunshine striking through massive clusters of 1,500-year-old trees that tower 300 feet above, you are mesmerized by the same ancient charm that led to the creation of the Save-the-Redwoods League in 1918.

Old logging roads are now used for hiking and biking trails, providing adventure, solitude and challenges.  Less than a half mile west of Albee Creek campground on Mattole Road, the Grasshopper Road trailhead leads to all five backpacking campsites. It’s possible to bike to four sites or even make a loop for several nights of camping in the backcountry.

We opted for a 6-mile ride up to Whiskey Flats trail camp, where moonshiners operated during prohibition. At an elevation of 1,600 feet, Whiskey Flats is the only trail camp in the park that sits among old growth redwoods. Although mosquitoes would probably deter many overnight guests, the climb up and descent make this a great morning ride before heading back to base camp for a little lunch and relaxation beside Albee Creek.
 
Even if you’re not into climbing, the ride along paved Mattole Road is enough of a reason to bring the bikes. The seldom-traveled, shady road is like Avenue of the Giants with bigger trees and fewer cars, making it perfect for family rides.

CAMPGROUNDS
DEVELOPED
For reservations call 1-800-444-7275. All campgrounds have coin-operated showers and flush toilets, and each site has a picnic table and grill/fire ring, 
• Albee Creek, located 5 miles west of Avenue of the Giants on Mattole Road, has 40 sites, including 33 that can accommodate RVs up to 31 feet. Albee Creek is open May through September.
• Burlington, located next to the visitor center on Avenue of the Giants, has 57 sites for tents or RVs up to 33 feet. Open year round, the campground is a short distance from the South Fork of the Eel River, where swimming and fishing is available.
• Hidden Springs, located 5 miles south of the visitor center, has 154 sites for tents or RVs up to 33 feet. Open May through October, there is nearby swimming and fishing.

ENVIRONMENTAL
For reservations during peak season, call 1-800-444-7275. Campgrounds are open year round and have grill/fire rings, picnic tables and chemical toilets. There are no showers and water has not been treated. Sites are 25 yards to a quarter of a mile from parking areas.
• Baxter, located 6 miles west of Avenue of the Giants on Mattole Road, has two campsites, including one nestled under second-growth redwoods.
• Hamilton, located 6½ miles west of Avenue of the Giants on Mattole Road, has two sites under redwoods and another in a meadow.

TRAIL CAMPS
No reservations are available. Campers must register at the ranger station behind the visitor center. There are no picnic tables, open fires or treated water.
• Whiskey Flats, set at 1,600 feet, is amid old-growth redwoods 5 miles from the Grasshopper Road trailhead off Mattole Road. Take Squaw Creek Ridge Road 2 miles into the climb.
• Johnson, located 2½ miles from the Big Tree Area, offers cabins remaining from crews making railroad ties in the early 1900s.
• Grasshopper is a 6-mile trek whether you start at the Big Tree Area or Grasshopper Road near the Albee Creek campground. At an elevation of 3,400
feet, there are 360-degree views of the redwood forests.
• Bull Creek is 4 miles from Kemp Road on the far western side of the park via Mattole Road and can also be reached on a 15-mile trek starting at the Big Tree Area. This campground is along the banks of Bull Creek and is somewhat open.
• Hanson Ridge is 2 miles past Whiskey Flats on Squaw Creek Ridge Road. Views expand west to the King Range.

GROUPS
Call park headquarters at 707-946-2409 for further information about these campgrounds. Cuneo Creek Horse Campground is located 8 miles west of
Avenue of the Giants on Mattole Road. It can accommodate 80 people with horses, and includes picnic tables, barbecues, fire rings, pay showers and flush toilets as well as troughs, corrals and hitching posts. Williams Grove, located 3 miles south of the visitor center, can accommodate 100 people. It has tables, barbecues and restrooms, but no showers.

HIKE/BIKE
The Marin Garden Club Hike and Bike campground is for people traveling by bicycle or on foot. It is located 2 miles north of the visitor center, and features picnic tables, toilets and treated water.

Location: Highway 101, 4 hours north of San Francisco; one hour south of Eureka
Activities: Camping, hiking, backpacking, mountain biking, wading in creek, exploring redwoods, visitors center

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