Big Basin Redwoods State Park

Nearly 250 years ago, the southwestern edge of Big Basin Redwoods State Park was reverently dubbed “Canada de la Salud” by a Spanish expedition seeking respite from a scurvy outbreak. The Canyon of Health not only provided the weary sailors fresh berries to feed their weakened bodies, but also nourished their souls.

Blessed with creeks that flow into scenic waterfalls and towering old-growth redwoods that shade the earth, Big Basin still radiates a healing power. It’s no wonder that preservationists realized as early as 1900 that this haven 20 miles north of Santa Cruz deserved to be set aside for future generations.

California’s first state park has grown from its original 3,800 acres to 20,000 acres. Today, hikers, backpackers, campers and mountain bikers flock to the park, less than a two-hour drive from San Francisco.

Big Basin is so big that it takes several trips to discover everything the park has to offer, which is why so many families return year after year. Whether you’re seeking a wilderness experience at one of four trail camps or opt to stay in a tent cabin, there are options to fulfill every outdoor experience you desire.

Trails throughout the park are well marked, but make sure to purchase a map at the visitor center adjacent to park headquarters. Information is available on the redwoods, birding, geology, mountain biking trails and regulations, trail camps along the Skyline-to-Sea trail, camping and junior ranger programs.

The 146 family campsites are dispersed among four campgrounds. There are sites that can accommodate RVs (although there are no hookups), drive-in sites and walk-in sites that are 50 to 200 yards from parking. Each site has a picnic table, fire ring and storage cupboard. There are flush toilets with coin-operated showers.

On a weekday trip, we chose a walk-in site situated among the redwoods along Sempervirens Creek. A black-tailed deer greeted us like a campground host. Within 30 minutes after we set up camp, some in our group had scampered along the creek’s bank to a waterfall.

Although Sempervirens Falls is hardly the most magnificent in the park, it does have historical significance. It is named after the local coast redwoods, Sequoia sempervirens. Also, the Sempervirens Club was formed very close to the falls in 1900 to ensure conservation of the ancient trees.

Hiking is the activity of choice among most visitors. One of the most popular trails is the Skyline-to-the-Sea trail, which begins at Castle Rock State Park and runs south 34 miles to Waddell Beach on Highway 1. The Skyline-to-the-Sea trail dissects Big Basin, allowing day users to hike a portion of the route. Starting at the Big Basin park headquarters, it’s a 5-mile hike (10 miles round trip) on the Skyline-to-the-Sea trail to Berry Creek Falls, which is the prime destination of the park. The 11-mile loop hike — Sunset trail to Skyline-to-Sea trail — passes three waterfalls, including Berry Creek Falls.

Biking is not allowed on trails, but is OK on 30 miles of fire roads. There’s a 14-mile ride from park headquarters to the ocean on Gazos Creek fire road featuring spectacular vistas. There are also five campgrounds that are accessible to bikers.

It’s actually a lot tougher to drive to the ocean. Best bet is to take Highway 9 to Santa Cruz and then head north on Highway 1 past Davenport to Waddell Beach. Besides being the starting or ending point of the Skyline-to-Sea trail, Waddell Beach is only 2.2 miles from hike-in/bike-in Twin Redwoods trail camp. Waddell Beach is also popular among wind surfers.

The only store within nine miles of the park is located near park headquarters. The closest town is Boulder Creek, a 20-minute drive from the park, so come prepared. Stock up on insect repellent; the mosquitoes were ferocious on our recent visit.

Redwoods make California’s first state park magical. Big Basin’s proximity to the Bay Area makes it a preeminent park for hikers and campers.

Location: 20 miles north of Santa Cruz off Hwy 9
Activities: Camping, hiking, backpacking, biking, wading in creeks, exploring redwoods, windsurfing and  surfing at Waddell Beach
Camping reservations: 1-800-444-park
Web site: www.cal-parks.ca.gov
Tent cabins: 1-800-874-tent
Horse camp at Rancho Del Oso: 831-425-1218
Backpacking permits: 831-338-8861
Santa Cruz bus service: 831-425-8600

Yosemite National Park -- Winter Wonderland

Backpackers slowly ski up Glacier Point Road following a blustery night that saw 8 inches of new snow blanket the upper reaches of Yosemite National Park. European tourists arrive at Badger Pass Ski Area via free shuttle buses from their hotels in Yosemite Valley. Couples seeking solitude snowshoe past the crowds to ridges with views, while kids and adults tube down a slick runway.

If it’s winter in Yosemite, it’s time for a little cold play.

The center of Yosemite’s winter sports scene is the Badger Pass Ski Area, located 30 miles from Yosemite Valley. Proclaimed as California’s original ski resort after opening in 1935, Badger Pass is the perfect place for beginning skiers and snowboarders to hone their skills in a family atmosphere.

Badger Pass first began offering ski lessons in 1928, making it the first ski school in the West. Commitment to newcomers is still a focus, with 35 percent of its 10 runs suited for beginners, 50 percent for intermediates and just 15 percent for advanced skiers. Badger Pass, situated at 7,200 to 8,000 feet in the Sierra Nevada, features five lifts: 1 triple-chair; 3 double-chair; 1 cable tow. With rentals, lessons, food services and even babysitting available on site, Badger Pass is a great place for families to get away for that once- or twice-a-year ski trip.

Tubing has been added at Badger Pass in recent years, but only issued snow tubes are allowed in the designated area. Although park regulations prohibit sledding in the Badger Pass area, SUVs and cars can be spotted many places on Glacier Point Road, where downhill runs are too tempting to resist.
 
The Yosemite Cross Country Ski Center, operated by the Yosemite Mountaineering School, is a relative baby compared to its downhill sister after springing up in 1970. At Badger Pass, where rentals and lessons are available, there are 25 miles of machine-groomed trails and roads, and 90 miles of marked trails.

Worth noting is that there are no trail fees for cross country skiing and snowshoeing because you’re in a national park. The fee to enter Yosemite is $20 per car, which is good for seven days.

There are several options if you want to spend the night in the wilderness during the winter. The Yosemite Mountaineering School can help you plan a guided trip, with overnight tours ranging from one to six days. The Yosemite Cross Country Ski Center also rents sleeping bags and overnight packs. For information about tours call 209-372-8344.

Located about a 9-mile cross country ski from the Badger Pass Ski Area is the Ostrander Ski Hut, which can accommodate 25 people a night. Although skiers must tote in food and bedding, the hut has a propane stove and wood for a fire. Popular for more than seven decades, Ostrander Ski Hut on Ostrander Lake offers a wilderness experience without the hassles of setting up a tent in the snow. It only costs $20 per person a night to stay and reservations are accepted by calling 209-372-0740.

Wilderness camping is free, but skiers must register at the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center. Popular snowcamping destinations from Badger Pass Ski Area include Dewey Point (3 miles), Taft Point (9 miles) and Glacier Point (19 miles). All three camping spots feature bird’s-eye views of the valley and towering granite landmarks.

In addition to Badger Pass, there are two other nordic areas in Yosemite: Crane Flat, located 7 miles from the Big Oak Flat Entrance on Highway 120; Mariposa Grove, 2 miles inside the park’s southernmost entrance on Highway 41. To ski or snowshoe among giant sequoias late in the season, the best bets are Tuolumne Grove and Merced Grove in the Crane Flat area. Make sure to hold onto the map and newsletter you receive when you enter the park. Yosemite looks a lot different in the winter.

Location: Highway 140 from Merced to the Arch Rock entrance to the park; take Wawona Road (Highway 41) 14 miles; turn left on Glacier Point Road to Badger Pass Ski Area
Winter activities: Downhill skiing, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, tubing, snow camping, hiking, exploring waterfalls
Info: Road conditions: 209-372-0200
Badger Pass Ski Area: 209-372-8430
Yosemite Cross Country Ski Center: 209-372-8444
Yosemite Mountaineering School: 209-372-8344
Ostrander Ski Hut reservations: 209-372-0740
Lodging: Inside the park: 559-252-4848; Outside the park on Highway 140 in El Portal, Cedar Lodge: 1-702-438-1166

Angel Island State Park

First, there's the 15-minute boat ride from Tiburon to Angel Island State Park or a 30-minute ride if you leave from San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf. The alternative transportation factor counts big with tourists and children.

Once you lumber off the ferry onto Angel Island, you're on your own to explore everything from the marine life of Ayala Cove, the 360-degree views on top of Mount Livermore and 100 years worth of military history. Although close to 200,000 annually make the boat ride to the park, many visitors limit their stays to the roomy picnic area in Ayala Cove.

There's a paved path leading to the tables and grills so it's handicap accessible, and nearby shade is great for seniors. The Ayala Cove picnic area also hugs the shoreline, allowing children to wade or splash around although no lifeguards are on duty. The adjacent visitor center provides a great introduction into the island's history, starting with Native Americans 3,000 years ago and through 1940, when it was last used as an Immigration Station.

"There's a huge amount of history here," said Surrey Blackburn, executive director of the Angel Island Association. "It's influenced the history of the Bay Area."

The historical contributions of Angel Island are so important that the park is on the National Registry of Historic Places and is a National Historic Landmark. Of international importance are the poems written by Chinese immigrants, who endured long waits to get into the country between 1910 and 1940. With very few belongings, Chinese expressed themselves with beautifully crafted calligraphy on walls in several Immigration Station buildings. More wall poems were uncovered at the Immigration Station hospital.

“This is a great way to get a good idea how California was built,” said Fran Rozoff, an elementary school teacher. “It gives the kids a sense of history.”

Because state history is part of the California’s fourth-grade curriculum, Rozoff escorts her students to the park every year. Blackburn estimates 50,000 youth annually take part in interpretive programs on Angel Island.

“It’s a wonderful place,” Rozoff said. “It’s a great way to end the year.”

Angel Island ranger Mike Whitehead has lived at several state parks since his dad was also a ranger. After more than a decade at Angel Island, he still gives his park two thumbs up due to the adventure factor."

“This is unique in the California State Park system,” Whitehead said. “It’s a jewel in the San Francisco Bay environs and the park system. Don’t miss the boat is a real concern out here. It’s an island. That makes it an adventure.”

As historically rich as Angel Island is, the park’s natural beauty demands attention, too. The park features nine campsites that can be reserved through Reserve America (1-800-444-PARK) and several other group sites for special use, including a kayak camp and a youth work camp.

”At night, you almost have the island to yourself,” Whitehead said.

Hiking can be breathtaking both for the views and the workout. The climb to Mount Livermore, named for the conservationist who led the campaign to create the park, is 781 feet -- enough challenge to get your heart pumping, but easy enough for average hikers to ascend. The island offers 12 miles of hiking trails and 8 for biking. The 5-mile paved trail that encompasses the island makes for a great bike ride, and rentals are available.

For seniors who may not want to hoof it but still want to experience the military history, there’s a narrated tram ride. Angel Island also embraces boaters, with 47 slips for day use 8 a.m. to sunset.

”There’s a lot to see out here,” Whitehead said. “It takes a little more dedication to come to the island.”

Location: Island located in San Francisco Bay; ferry service from San Francisco and Tiburon
Activities: Hiking, cycling, picnicking, boating, tram ride, snack shop, camping, visitors center
Ferry service: The cost of a round-trip fare from Tiburon to Angel Island is $10 for adults, $7.50 for children 5-11 and free for youth 4-and-under. Price includes admission to the park. Call 415-435-2131 for schedule. You can also board a Blue and Gold Ferry in San Francisco or Oakland/Alameda to reach Angel Island. The cost is $13 for adults, $7.50 children 12 and under and youth under 5 are free. Ferries leaving Oakland/Alameda stop at Fisherman’s Wharf first. Call 415-705-5555 for schedule.

Tomales Bay State Park

Although Tomales Bay State Park, the next door neighbor of Point Reyes National Seashore, has only been open to the public since 1952, it was favored by the Coast Miwoks some 3,000 year ago. Crank up the time machine to the 21st century and you can still find families sharing meals along Heart’s Desire Beach, people paddling on tranquil Tomales Bay and young kids splashing in water that really is warm enough to swim in.

“It will feed your soul and spirit,” Tomales Bay State park ranger Carlos Porrata said. “The Coast Miwoks lived here for thousands of years. The reason they lived here is because if there is such a thing as paradise this is it. How much better could it get?”

Families from throughout the Bay Area echo that sentiment. If you’re looking for a place to let the kids cool off while you read a book at a nearby picnic table or take a short hike to the next beach over, Tomales Bay State Park is an ideal summer destination for you. The warm waters draw families from throughout the Bay Area, especially those with young children.

“We like the fact that’s warmer,” said a father from San Francisco. “It’s more protected for the kids. It’s a great family spot.”

Tomales Bay State Park is ideal for kayakers as well. For a mere $4 parking fee, you can drive your car within 100 yards of the bay and be paddling away in a matter of minutes. Kayaking is so popular on Tomales Bay that people are driving from throughout Northern California to launch for the day.

“The weather is always nice,” said experienced kayaker Melissa Erno. “This is a great place to go. It’s really easy to get your kayak in and out of the water."

Since the ’90s, kayaking’s popularity has exploded and now there are more than half dozen kayak companies renting and offering tours; most kayakers find their way to Tomales Bay State Park even if they launch from nearby Blue Waters Kayaks in Inverness, for example.

In the spirit of the Coast Miwoks, Porrata believes he is a steward of the land he oversees. As the Tomales Bay State Park ranger for more than two decades, Porrata is an activist when it comes to the environment and was even awarded the Olmstead Award by the State Parks Department.

Porrata is also a member of the Tomales Bay Watershed Council, an organization that also includes representatives from Point Reyes National Seashore, the kayak and oyster companies, residents, ranchers, county planning and water quality. Addressing the continued use of Tomales Bay by kayakers, the council has developed a guideline for boaters on Tomales Bay, especially noting all restrooms along the coast.

“It’s wonderful to come and be with nature, but leave a light foot,” Porrata said. “We have so much to learn from the Coast Miwoks.”

Location: Follow Sir Francis Drake Blvd. in Marin County toward lighthouse; turn right on Pierce Point Road to park entrance
Activities: Kayaking, canoeing, clamming, swimming, picnicking, hiking, wildlife viewing
Info: 415-669-1140
Boat-in camping: Available north of Indian Beach to Tomales Point; contact Point National Seashore at 415-464-5149

Kirby Cove in the Marin Headlands

Kirby Cove is perhaps one of the best camping spots in all of Northern California and is within walking distance from the Golden Gate Bridge. Tucked away amid towering cypress trees, all five camping sites have water views, are close enough to hear fog horns sound all night long and spacious enough to accommodate the whole family.

Only four sites are open to the public, so plan ahead to get a reservation, which can be made six months in advance. Even if you have to plan your entire vacation around when you can get a reservation, it's worth it. Each site has room for four tents, and with a 10-person maximum, you really can turn this camping outing into a small gathering.

Kirby Cove’s greatest attribute is proximity to the Golden Gate Bridge. A black-sand beach below the campground is perfect for sunbathing, reading or simply watching boats come and go under one of the most photographed landmarks in the world.

The beach's rocky shoreline features several caves to explore during low tide. As small waves break onto the coast, it's easy to dart around rugged outcroppings to reach caves that stretch inward 25 to 40 feet. Just above the beach is a small day use area with a picnic table.

Even if you're not into camping, Kirby Cove is a great hiking destination for lunch or some downtime from a hectic vacation in the city. There's plenty of room to throw a frisbee or toss the football around. Each camp site has two picnic tables and a fire ring. Although there are pit toilets, at least there are bathrooms nearby. There is no potable water.

Part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Kirby Cove is very user friendly (accept for getting a reservation). There are carts to haul your gear to the camping spots, wheelchair accessible paths and established places to put up each tent to ensure a flat surface and reduce environmental impact.

After you make your reservation, you will receive parking passes and the combination to the lock at the gate at the top of the fireroad. For day use, walk around the gate just north of the first parking lot near the bridge. It's about a mile from the top of the road down to the campground. It's about 100 to 300 yards from the campground parking lot to the camping sites, making those carts handy.

If you live in the Bay Area, you may think that one night at Kirby Cove will be enough to get a quick camping fix. But Kirby Cove is such a great getaway that you head away from camp already planning next year's vacation.   

Location: Just north of the Golden Gate Bridge in Marin County. Just after the first parking lot of the Marin Headlands on the left, there's a locked gate at a fireroad. The fireroad leads to the campground.
Activities: Camping, sunbathing, hiking

Marin Headlands

Whenever National Park Service ranger Matt Ehmann entertains guests from the East Coast, his first stop is that spot just across the Golden Gate Bridge where the Marin Headlands majestically tower above the Pacific Ocean. Ehmann unnecessarily points out the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco skyline before directing his guests’ attention to Angel Island and Tiburon.

“You have such phenomenal views,” Ehmann said. “I orient my out-of-town visitors to the Bay Area from one spot.”

The Marin Headlands, under jurisdiction of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, offer an ideal day trip for millions who visit the Bay Area on business, vacation and adventure. But unlike visitors who trek to Yosemite to see the falls or the Grand Canyon’s South Rim to peer over the side for the view, the Headlands’ diverse guests are treated to a multitude of opportunities a stone throw from their homes or hotels.

There’s the park’s military history, featuring a dozen batteries. There’s the wildlife of the Headlands, ranging from bobcats and deer to red-tailed hawks and an occasional eagle. Mountain biking is another allure as well as hiking along a pristine coastline preserved from development. Rodeo Beach is one of Marin’s most popular surf spots, especially for a quickie before or after work.

There’s even inexpensive lodging at the Golden Gate Hostel. Camping is offered at two spots on the ocean (Kirby Cove and Bicentennial) and two others that require a short backpack into the heart of the Headlands (Hawk and Haypress).

A great place to start your adventure in the Marin Headlands, besides the Golden Gate Bridge overlook, is the visitor center located 3 miles from the park entrance. That’s where you pick up camping permits, trail maps and informational brochures, including one designed for dog lovers. You can also uncover lots of insider knowledge about the Headlands through interpretive displays at the visitor center. In one quick stop you can learn about the influence of the Coast Miwoks, early Spanish ranchers and military in the Headlands.

After a review of the Headlands’ natural habitat, including grasses, wildlife and ocean life, you can head over to the Marine Mammal Center, which is open to the public daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The private, nonprofit center, which is the largest marine mammal rehabilitation center in the country, has cared for more than 5,000 sea lions.

Aside from all the lessons that can be learned throughout the Marin Headlands, there’s lots of fun to be had. Although fog often prevents the sun from shining down on the park, there are always people picnicking on the beach, hikers climbing scenic peaks and mountain bikers hitting the trails.

On hot, sunny weekend days, crowds can be a problem, especially at Rodeo Beach. But the beauty of the Marin Headlands prevails regardless of the masses, and with a little effort you can usually find solitude within the park’s boundaries, which stretch from the Golden Gate Bridge to Tennessee Valley.

Location: Just north of the Golden Gate Bridge, stretching along the Pacific Ocean coast to Tennessee Valley
Activities: Scenic views, photography, hiking, cycling, mountain biking, picnicking, wildlife viewing, interpretive center, sunbathing, surfing, boogie boarding, beachcombing.
Information: 415-331-1540
Camping: Kirby Cove call 415-561-4304 ($20 per night); Bicentennial, Hawk, Haypress call 415-331-1540 (free).

Hendy Woods State Park

If a Russian immigrant could live in the forests of Hendy Woods State Park for more than 18 years, then it must be worthy of a couple of nights in a tent at the campground tucked away in the Anderson Valley wine region.

The legend of the Hendy Hermit is one of many reasons to visit this 845-acre refuge amid the redwoods. Using the stump of a fallen redwood as a framework for his home, the hermit lived off the land and the generosity of strangers. Part of his hut is still intact for visitors to explore and there’s a kiosk with photos and articles to provide insight into the hermit’s meager existence.

The park also features two groves of old-growth redwoods: the 80-acre Big Hendy grove and the 20-acre Little Hendy Grove. Trails wind through the groves and campgrounds, allowing visitors to hike without having to get in a car and drive to a trailhead.

The 92 developed campsites are spacious although there isn't a lot of privacy from neighbors. That doesn’t seem to deter visitors, many of whom use this park as an annual getaway for the entire family to converge. Each site has a picnic table, fire grill and food lockers. Other amenities include drinking water, flush toilets and coin-operated showers. The sites can handle RVs that are 35 feet long, and there’s a RV dump station.

There are also four rustic cabins that can be rented. The cabins may be great for those seeking accommodations while wine tasting, but I would prefer to stick with tent camping every time.

The day-use area features access to the Navarro River. It’s fine for a dip on a hot summer day, and may be suitable for canoes and kayaks in winter and spring.

Fishing is not allowed within the park boundaries. The Department of Fish and Game has designated the area upstream from the Philo-Greenwood Bridge as a spawning habitat.

Bikes are not allowed on trails, but the paved roads throughout the campground and road to the day use area are safe and suitable for rides with the kids. Serious mountain bikers will need to look elsewhere for riding opportunities.

Location: From San Francisco, take Highway 101 to Cloverdale. Head west on Highway 128 for 45 minutes to Philo Greenwood Road, turn left to park entrance
Activities: Camping, hiking, biking, swimming, exploring redwoods, Hermit Hut
Information: 707-895-3141

Camping: 1-800-444-park
Website: www.cal-parks.ca.gov

Humboldt Redwoods State Park

Avenue of the Giants may be the premier destination in Humboldt Redwoods State Park, but among the 52,000 acres are 13 campgrounds. Some are noticeable along the renowned tree-lined corridor while others demand a 6- to 15-mile hike/bike climb above the Bull Creek watershed.

There are three developed campgrounds, two environmental campgrounds, five backpacking camps, a hike/bike campground just off the main road and two group campgrounds, including an area reserved for campers with horses.

The campground that seemingly stands out among the lot is Albee Creek, tucked away 5 miles west of Avenue of the Giants near Weott on Mattole Road. Albee Creek campground makes a perfect base camp, offering a little privacy and tons of accessibility to California’s third-largest state park.

The volunteer docent at the Founders Grove on Avenue of the Giants went so far as to call Albee Creek one of the top 100 campgrounds in the nation. And it’s hard to argue his point after two glorious days in the redwoods.

Albee Creek is the smallest of the three developed campgrounds with 40 sites, including one that is wheelchair accessible and 33 that can accommodate RVs up to 31 feet. All sites have picnic tables and grill/fire rings, and the campground has flush toilets and coin-operated showers.

Quaint Albee Creek and rocky Bull Creek serve as boundaries for the campground dotted with redwoods and teeming with wildlife. It’s actually a tough call whether to relax with a good book as Albee Creek’s peaceful current provides a little background music or explore the more than 75 miles of trails throughout the park.

Beginning at the campground is a 2½-mile hike on the Big Tree Area Loop that features Rockefeller Forest, Tall Tree and Giant Tree. With sunshine striking through massive clusters of 1,500-year-old trees that tower 300 feet above, you are mesmerized by the same ancient charm that led to the creation of the Save-the-Redwoods League in 1918.

Old logging roads are now used for hiking and biking trails, providing adventure, solitude and challenges.  Less than a half mile west of Albee Creek campground on Mattole Road, the Grasshopper Road trailhead leads to all five backpacking campsites. It’s possible to bike to four sites or even make a loop for several nights of camping in the backcountry.

We opted for a 6-mile ride up to Whiskey Flats trail camp, where moonshiners operated during prohibition. At an elevation of 1,600 feet, Whiskey Flats is the only trail camp in the park that sits among old growth redwoods. Although mosquitoes would probably deter many overnight guests, the climb up and descent make this a great morning ride before heading back to base camp for a little lunch and relaxation beside Albee Creek.
 

Even if you’re not into climbing, the ride along paved Mattole Road is enough of a reason to bring the bikes. The seldom-traveled, shady road is like Avenue of the Giants with bigger trees and fewer cars, making it perfect for family rides.

CAMPGROUNDS

DEVELOPED

For reservations call 1-800-444-7275. All campgrounds have coin-operated showers and flush toilets, and each site has a picnic table and grill/fire ring, 

• Albee Creek, located 5 miles west of Avenue of the Giants on Mattole Road, has 40 sites, including 33 that can accommodate RVs up to 31 feet. Albee Creek is open May through September.

• Burlington, located next to the visitor center on Avenue of the Giants, has 57 sites for tents or RVs up to 33 feet. Open year round, the campground is a short distance from the South Fork of the Eel River, where swimming and fishing is available.

• Hidden Springs, located 5 miles south of the visitor center, has 154 sites for tents or RVs up to 33 feet. Open May through October, there is nearby swimming and fishing.

ENVIRONMENTAL

For reservations during peak season, call 1-800-444-7275. Campgrounds are open year round and have grill/fire rings, picnic tables and chemical toilets. There are no showers and water has not been treated. Sites are 25 yards to a quarter of a mile from parking areas.

• Baxter, located 6 miles west of Avenue of the Giants on Mattole Road, has two campsites, including one nestled under second-growth redwoods.

• Hamilton, located 6½ miles west of Avenue of the Giants on Mattole Road, has two sites under redwoods and another in a meadow.

TRAIL CAMPS

No reservations are available. Campers must register at the ranger station behind the visitor center. There are no picnic tables, open fires or treated water.

• Whiskey Flats, set at 1,600 feet, is amid old-growth redwoods 5 miles from the Grasshopper Road trailhead off Mattole Road. Take Squaw Creek Ridge Road 2 miles into the climb.

• Johnson, located 2½ miles from the Big Tree Area, offers cabins remaining from crews making railroad ties in the early 1900s.

• Grasshopper is a 6-mile trek whether you start at the Big Tree Area or Grasshopper Road near the Albee Creek campground. At an elevation of 3,400

feet, there are 360-degree views of the redwood forests.

• Bull Creek is 4 miles from Kemp Road on the far western side of the park via Mattole Road and can also be reached on a 15-mile trek starting at the Big Tree Area. This campground is along the banks of Bull Creek and is somewhat open.

• Hanson Ridge is 2 miles past Whiskey Flats on Squaw Creek Ridge Road. Views expand west to the King Range.

GROUPS

Call park headquarters at 707-946-2409 for further information about these campgrounds. Cuneo Creek Horse Campground is located 8 miles west of

Avenue of the Giants on Mattole Road. It can accommodate 80 people with horses, and includes picnic tables, barbecues, fire rings, pay showers and flush toilets as well as troughs, corrals and hitching posts. Williams Grove, located 3 miles south of the visitor center, can accommodate 100 people. It has tables, barbecues and restrooms, but no showers.

HIKE/BIKE

The Marin Garden Club Hike and Bike campground is for people traveling by bicycle or on foot. It is located 2 miles north of the visitor center, and features picnic tables, toilets and treated water.

Location: Highway 101, 4 hours north of San Francisco; one hour south of Eureka
Activities: Camping, hiking, backpacking, mountain biking, wading in creek, exploring redwoods, visitors center

Clear Lake State Park

The sight of two kayaks on top of an incoming SUV is the only prodding naturalist Cliff Johnson needs to offer up a few suggestions on where to paddle during a visit to Clear Lake State Park. Johnson, who works in visitor services, calls attention to Kelsey Creek, an Everglades-like waterway that meanders in and out of Clear Lake. White pelicans, great blue herons and double-crested cormorants are as common as friendly park employees.

“It’s a great camping environment,” Johnson said. “There’s a lot to do here.”

Clear Lake State Park, located less than four hours northeast of San Francisco, is a birding paradise. Johnson says he expects to see at least 45 species of birds when he leads a summer nature hike inside the park; that number increases to 65 species in the winter and Johnson's personal count has reached 102.

Johnson, a former researcher at UC Berkeley, says more than 300 species of birds have been identified throughout Lake County. In his worldwide travels, Johnson has viewed some 7,200 species.

“We have a lot of diverse habitat — oak woodlands, river, high-altitude pine, lake,” Johnson said. “We’ve had some amazing birds come through. There’s always something that shows up that you don’t expect.”

The fishing on Clear Lake, possibly the oldest lake in North America, is even better than the birding. On a steamy afternoon last week, a couple of Lake County locals came to the park to stage their own personal derby. Using artificial worms or night crawlers, bass in the 2- to 5-pound range were striking from the shoreline and by wading into the warm water. Clear Lake is also home to crappie, bluegills, catfish,

perch, blackfish and hitch. Lake records include a 17.5-pound largemouth bass caught in 1990 and a 35-pound channel catfish caught in 1982.

Tules, down trees and water grasses create a rich fishery in the 19-mile lake that averages 27 feet in depth. But the Department of Fish and Game periodically plants fish. During the past few years, thousands of crappie and bass have been planted, establishing one of the state’s best fisheries for those specific species.

Although Clear Lake State Park may draw as many as 1,500 campers and day users during a summer weekend, the park had plenty of campsites available during a midweek trip in July. There are several “premium” sites right on the lake, allowing campers to pull their boats up onto the beach for quick access. Many of these sites are reserved seven months in advance.

Even if you can't secure a “premium” site, there are plenty of options for motor boats, kayaks, canoes and inflatables. Most campsites in Kelsey Creek Campground (one of four campgrounds in the park) are within a short walk of the lake via a trail near the “premium” sites. There’s also a boat ramp adjacent to the visitor center.

The four campgrounds range from party sites for boaters to romantic perches overlooking the lake. Holly Palmer, a park administrator, refers to a few spots in the Lower Bayview Campground as “honeymoon sites” due to their privacy and lake views.

“It’s gorgeous on a moonlit night — you can't beat it,” Palmer said. “On the weekend we’re packed, but midweek it’s nice.”

With water temperatures averaging 61 degrees and rising as high as 76 degrees, Clear Lake is ideal for all water sports. There is even a roped-off swimming area with nearby picnic tables and barbecues.

Hiking is somewhat limited, but there are two short, self-guided nature trails. The Indian Nature Trail explores how the Pomo utilized native plants to survive and thrive.

To learn more about the history of the Pomo, which date back 1,500 years, stop at the visitor center. Besides the Pomo exhibit, the impressive visitor center expounds on the park’s woodlands, caves and waterways. A 700-gallon aquarium features fish from the lake.

Clear Lake State Park draws more than 120,000 visitors per year, which is a great reason to avoid the area on summer weekends. During the off-season, when eagles, mountain lions, bobcats, river otters and mink rear their heads, or during the week when the rest of the world is working, Clear Lake State Park is an oasis for boaters, birders and anglers.

Location: From San Francisco, take 101 north to Hopland. Exit onto Highway 175, driving 17 miles to Main Street. Follow Main Street to Soda Bay Road. Take Soda Bay Road 6 miles to park entrance

Activities: Camping, birding, fishing, swimming, boating, hiking, visitors center
General information: 707-279-4293
Camping reservations: 1-800-444-7275. Reservations may be made up to seven months in advance. There are no RV hookups, but there is a dump station near the boat ramp.

• Kelsey Creek Campground offers premium sites with water access.

• Cole Creek Campground is shaded by oaks and cottonwoods.

• Lower and Upper Bayview Campgrounds offer the most privacy

Stinson Beach State Park

Two teen-age boys stretched out on towels following a round of surfing at Stinson Beach. They were still pumped by the 4-foot waves that carried them all the way into shore.

Besides surfing, there’s always people watching at Marin County’s most popular beach.

“Lots of girls -- lots of scenes to be observed,” one teen offered.

A mother of four from nearby San Anselmo likes the variety of activities at Stinson Beach. She has three boys and a girl who range in age from 6 to 13.

“It’s fun for the older ones and the younger ones,” she said as her children dug trenches in the sand. “We don’t have to split up.”

Even on an overcast day at Stinson, there’s something to do: stroll the beach; watch a sunset; catch some rays; surf; boogie board; play football; picnic; fish; and soak up the atmosphere at California’s premier beach north of Santa Cruz.

“It’s a clean, unobstructed beach with fine sand that’s great for wading and swimming,” said Golden Gate National Recreation Association ranger Robert Del Secco. “It’s one of the very last beaches that you can look back and see green. At other beaches you’ve got houses and carnivals. This beach is surrounded by parkland.”

Stinson Beach is under the jurisdiction of the GGNRA, which oversees a half dozen beaches along Marin’s coastline. Del Secco, who started as a lifeguard at Stinson in 1977 before graduating to ranger, says his park regularly attracts beachcombers from the Central Valley during the summer heat.

Stinson Beach really is equipped to handle gobs of people, with more than 50 picnic tables and 500 parking places. The National Park Service doesn’t even charge you for parking. There are restrooms, changing rooms, showers and lifeguards all for free.

Another great thing about Stinson Beach is that it’s accessible by bus. It’s not unreasonable to plan an all-day outing, starting with a hike along the 7.1-mile Dipsea Trail and cool off with a dip in the Pacific Ocean. The annual Dipsea Race begins in Mill Valley and ends at Stinson Beach.

Just as the Dipsea has a storied history as the second oldest footrace in the nation, so too does Stinson Beach. According to Del Secco, the tower currently being used by lifeguards was originally a casino and speakeasy during prohibition. Today, the town of Stinson Beach has its own bars, as well as hotels, restaurants, and shops that rent surfboards, boogie boards, wet suits and kayaks.

After the tower was acquired by the state, it was turned into an U.S. Lifesaving Station. There have been more than 280 shipwrecks on nearby Duxberry Reef. Stinson Beach is still considered a dangerous area after a shark attack several years ago in 5 feet of water less than 50 yards offshore.

Excluding the possibility of shark attacks, Stinson Beach serves as a quick getaway. And don’t forget you can take the bus.

Location: From Highway 101, follow Highway 1 for 5 miles north
Activities: Kite surfing, surfing, boogie boarding, swimming (lifeguards on duty during summer), picnicking, beachcombing, beach volleyball
Information: To reach the lifeguard tower call 415-868-0942; weather update, call 415-868-1922
Regulations: No camping, no fires, no glass containers, no pets, no personal watercraft

Emerald Bay State Park

The “California Camping” book by famed outdoors writer Tom Stienstra rates Emerald Bay State Park a 10, and there’s no arguing his assessment. Perched atop a hillside at 7,000 feet in the Sierra Nevada, there’s a view of Emerald Bay to the left and Lake Tahoe to the right from our campsite. Although crowded and oft-times difficult to get a reservation, the scenery is so splendid and the recreation opportunities bountiful that this park is a must-see.

We brought along our kayaks for this trip and got in two great paddles. The first day, we explored deep-blue Emerald Bay, which was calm and soothing in the morning and rough in the afternoon due to a storm.

Emerald Bay features Fannette Island, the only island in Lake Tahoe; it is only accessible by boat. Atop the island are the ruins of a tea house built by Lora J. Knight in the 1930s. Knight also built Vikingsholm, which is now a museum at the western edge of Emerald Bay State Park. After we climbed to the top of Fannette Island, where we felt like we were on the top of the world, we continued our paddling over to Vikingsholm, which made for a great lunch spot on the developed shoreline. Guided tours of Vikingsholm are available June through September. Eagle Falls is less than a half mile from Vikingsholm, so we were also able to get in a little hiking on this day trip before paddling back to our campground.

Because our campsite was at the north end of the park, we left our kayaks on the beach, less than 500 yards uphill from our site. The convenience of not having to unload or load the boats on back-to-back days made this trip even more special. The second day, we paddled to D.L. Bliss State Park, passing towering walls of granite that encompass Lake Tahoe. The 10-mile round-trip was challenging, but there so much to see that we hardly felt taxed.

Emerald Bay State Park has more than 100 campsites. Across Emerald Bay from the main campground there are 20 boat-in sites Besides kayaking and canoeing, there is great hiking at Emerald Bay State Park, including the Rubicon Trail that stretches above Emerald Bay and Lake Tahoe to D.L. Bliss State Park and beyond.

And if you get caught in a rare summer storm, you can always make the 20-minute drive to South Lake Tahoe for a meal or the slots.       

Location: From Highway 50 in South Lake Tahoe, take Highway 89 east 8 miles
Activities: Camping, hiking, paddling, swimming in Emerald Bay, visitors center at

Vikingsholm
Information: 530-541-3030
Camping: 1-800-444-park
Website: www.cal-parks.ca.gov